Adventures in the South of Italy Part III

The next morning we were up early and checked out of the hotel by around 8:30/9.

gorgeous views

To Amalfi we went.

I ate a banana before boarding the bus and held myself together for 2 hours of that winding road to the city of Amalfi. For some reason our morning ride was obnoxiously long. It should have been about an 1 ½ but it would up being about 2 hours for some reason.

Rounding a bend

Even so, I got some great pictures and focused on the excellent scenery from my window seat. When you’re going towards Positano or Amalfi sit on the right hand side of the bus (not behind the driver) for gorgeous views. Do not sit on the right hand side if you get nervous with heights, or winding roads.

When we finally got to Amalfi, the first thing we did was grab sandwiches from a little coffee shop on the shoreline. We weren't expecting much since it was quite close to the boat rentals and other touristic activities but we were pleasantly surprised. We ordered a couple of sandwiches and they were made right in front of us with fresh ingredients.  I also enjoyed the atmosphere of the shop because it was on the small side. The workers were personable and smiling which was uplifting for my sleepy, kind of nauseous self. Also the price was not bad. For sandwiches and waters, we spent 4 or 5 euros each. 

my yummy caprese sandwich 

Endira and I enjoying our sunny boat ride

We took our sandwiches to go and ate them on a bench overlooking the water.  My caprese sandwich was wonderful with tomatoes and mozzarella.  It was seasoned beautifully with a little, salt and pepper, olive oil, and fresh basil too so I really enjoyed it.

Then we got onto a boat and took a ride towards the Emerald Grotto, similar to its more famous cousin in Capri, The Blue Grotto. These grottos are naturally occurring caves in the side of a cliff that naturally filter

Leaving Amalfi in our wake 

light and appear to glow various colors (according to the make-up of the cave and water).  I’ve wanted to go the Emerald Grotto for years now, so we decided to take an hour long boat ride from Amalfi (there was also the option of going from Positano, but it was a half day trip and more expensive so since we only had a half day to explore we decided to take the shorter journey from Amalfi). It was €10 a person for the round trip boat ride and another €5 to go into the grotto which is considerably cheaper than getting into the Blue Grotto in Capri.

The boat ride was fantastic with wonderful sea breezes and gorgeous views of towns sketched right into the cliffs.  Sometimes I seriously wonder about the sanity of Italian architects. Some of the towns in Italy, especially in Campania, are quite precariously situated on the edge of volcanoes or handing onto the edge of cliffs. 

Cities built quite precariously on the cliffs... Impressive

Our boat ride was breezy and relaxing and we were dropped off right at the mouth of the grotto. 

We lined up and got into a giant paddle boat with our crazy Italian guide who kept shouting “Looky, looky” and pointing at things. Between him and the awesomely fabulous older Spanish lady who started singing half in Neapolitan, half in Spanish (Tu vu’fa l’americano in reaction to our boat guide asking every single person if they were American), we had quite the hilarious boat ride.

Look at that glowing water!

Not the clearest picture: But that's the underwater
Nativity scene!

I really enjoyed the glowing blue green water and the underwater presepe or nativity scene (only in Campania would they think of submerging a nativity scene).  It was pretty cool, but the glowing area was relatively small.  If you’ve not gone to the Blue Grotto, I highly recommend it. It’s more expensive but so gorgeous and far more impressive than the Emerald Grotto. 

After that, the boat picked us up again and brought us back to Amalfi where we automatically decided to escape the heat by planting ourselves on the beach and jumping into the water (again in turns since we didn’t want to leave our belongings unsupervised). The water was beautiful and just the right temperature to cool off after all the blazing sun.  And the beach itself wasn’t quite as painfully rocky as Positano (that being said, I don’t think it was as picturesque either).

After a while we decided to wander around and find the path up to Ravello.  We were completely unsuccessful  but we had fun traipsing up narrow staircases that would suddenly open up to sudden views of colorful town and stunning coastline. It was a lot of fun but if you want to make it up to Ravello I suggest that you take the bus up and then walk down back to Amalfi, just because it’s very easy to get lost. 

the many versions of limoncello

We wandered around center for a bit and saw the main church and piazzas.  We even spotted another limoncello shop where I wandered around. They had so many different versions of limoncello made with lemons or lemons with cream. There were also bottles of liquor that were made with other fruits and flavors. Some were made with orange and there were even versions made with pistacchio which looked amazing. 

Then we got back on the bus to Sorrento. We decided to dine there to make sure that we were able to get the Circovesuviana to Naples and then the 8pm train back to Rome. We both had work early the next morning so we didn’t want to risk getting stuck in Naples. 

Our bus ride back to Sorrento was almost an hour shorter than our morning ride so if we had known that our bus driver was going to fly through the curving paths we would have stayed a little longer. As it stands, we were able to relax and eat an early meal in Sorrento.

A video of the crazy winding hills and our bus ride

juicy cheeseburger

We stopped at a little restaurant a couple of blocks from the station called Bar del Carmine. We sat outside in the sun and enjoyed the breeze while observing the passersby. It was a small restaurant with friendly staff and decent service.  Endira played the American and ordered a cheeseburger and French fries with a beer.  I took and bite and was pleasantly surprised with how tasty it was.  The meat was juicy and cooked to perfection on a wonderful bun with bacon and cheese. I don’t know what kind of cheese it was, but it was quite good. 

my beautiful caprese

beer and pear cider

I decided to stick with my caprese (it seemed like the safest choice after our day of bus rides.  It was a huge sandwich and quite good. It wasn’t as flavorful as my morning sandwich but it was still quite tasty and filling.  I also got a pear cider because I was so surprised to see it on the menu. I had to get it even though it was a tad expensive for a small bottle because I love pear cider and haven’t had it in months.

Our sunlit table with delicious food 

Then to finish our experience down south we FINALLY got limoncello to toast our adventures.  It was served with delicious little cookies coated in powdered sugar but soft to the bite.  I quite enjoyed them and our limoncello. It made a great finale to a wonderful weekend and fun food journey. 

wonderful ending to a wonderful meal

Next thing you know, we were running to the train and then back to Naples (where we managed to get special 25^th anniversary magnum ice cream bars at the train station) and finally we were back in Rome. Home sweet home…

At least for another couple of weeks! 

Missed the other parts of this series?
Part I here
Part II here

Mozzarella and tomatoes

It's been incredibly hot in Rome recently. Humid, muggy, sun blazing down, no clothes (but of course you have to wear clothes) weather.
And it, sadly, makes me lose my appetite.
I never fare well in the heat.  I never had.  I don't love summer.  I like it when I'm on the beach under an umbrella, or playing in the water... Which really doesn't happen often enough.
I know, I know, everyone hates summer in the middle of a heatwave, they go from complaining about the cold to complaining about the heat in a heartbeat. But I don't complain about the cold, even when there's a polar vortex (with the exception of one evening where I was just dressed inappropriately because I never listen to my mother).
If I could go to the beach everyday I probably wouldn't complain all that much about the heat, but sadly I'm at work everyday so I can't throw myself into the sea and cool down when I'd like.
And the heat just saps my energy so when I get home from work I don't want to do anything. I don't

My gorgeous caprese with dried basil

want to kick or turn on the stove. I don't want to eat. It's just to hot and I'm lackluster.
So my solution has been an insalata Caprese, which is the Italian for a mozzarella and tomato salad. I think the salad must have origins in Capri (an island near Naples in Southern Italy) but I'm not sure.  But with ingredients fresh out of the fridge, the salad is delicious and refreshing.
And it requires amazingly little effort. It's so easy.

With balsamic vinegar

All you need are fresh tomatoes, mozzarella (preferably bufala because it's divine), basil (fresh or dried), olive oil, and balsamic vinegar (although if you don't like balsamic that can be skipped). A traditional caprese doesn't use balsamic vinegar, but I love the added tang.
Slice the tomatoes and mozzarella, layer them onto a plate and drizzle with oil and vinegar.  Garnish with basil and maybe a little salt and pepper. It's simple but really wonderful in the heat.  And if you're not a fan of tomatoes, you can also serve your mozzarella on a bed of arugula. It's equally delicious and equally refreshing for summer
I've been eating it pretty consistently for days now.

mozzarella on a beautiful bed of fresh rucola

Restaurant Review Rome: Gelati & Mozzarella

I hadn’t had gelato in a while mostly because I’m too busy running around for work. I have had a sundae from McDonald but that certainly doesn’t count as gelato. And yes, I know, terrible. I’m in the land of gelato and really amazing food and I got a McDonald’s Sundae on my way home from work . My only excuse is that it was really late and I hadn’t had dinner yet. I needed something to get through the 20 minute walk home and nothing else cheap and easy was available. It was a fail but necessary. 

So the other day, while on a relaxing vacation walk, I finally had a chance to try the gelateria that my

housemate Adele has been raving about for months. I was a little dubious because it’s called Gelati & Mozzarella.  What does mozzarella have to do with ice cream? Nothing, right?

Well, I finally got there and I understand now.  There is a type of mozzarella in Italy (in the states too, but not as well known) called mozzarella di bufala and it’s made with the milk of the domestic water buffalo. It is traditional in the south of italy and is incredibly rich and creamy. It's considered one of, if not the best kind of mozzarella around.

 So this ice cream shop makes gelato using buffalo milk, hence the name.

They had a lot of incredible looking flavors, most of which were made with buffalo. I tried the stracciatella (cookies and cream) made with buffalo, cuore di cioccolato (heart of chocolate aka more dark chocolate than any normal person can handle) and the pera e cioccolato (pear and chocolate). Delicious, Delicious, Delicious!

The ice cream was incredibly creamy and rich, just how I like it. I got the €3 cup and it was just the right amount for me but if you can’t handle a lot of richness a €2 cup should be enough for you. The texture of the gelato was smooth and wonderful. 

I really enjoyed the cuore di cioccolato because it’s the darkest, deepest dark chocolate I think I’ve ever seen (they even have a regular dark chocolate flavor). It’s rich and smooth but for me, it wasn’t overwhelming. It was like hot fudge in ice cream form.  The stracciatella was also quite good.  I tried it to see about the bufala and it was great. It was just as creamy as I could have hoped.  But I have to say that my absolute favorite was the pera and cioccolato. It was light and creamy but not too sweet.  It was mostly pear flavored gelato with a hint of chocolate. It was divine and paired really well with the other flavors too.

There’s a small bar near the window to eat your ice cream or your pastries (they also do amazing pastries) but I chose to walk and eat since it was crowded when I was there. It really is adorable inside and their pastries and sweets look quite delicious. I really wanted to try a bit of everything, but I’ll have to save it for another time.  

Makeshifting my lunch

Everyday I try to bring lunch with me, that way I save some money (it definitely costs more to get pizza or a premade sandwich) and eat a little healthier.
On some days I make myself salad and on others I try fun variations of sandwiches.

Last week I brought a colorful and tasty salad with me. It had cherry tomatoes, some pesto chicken, lettuce, raddichio and roasted red peppers in it. The flavors were a good blend with a lot of different textures. I also made a little balsamic, olive oil and oregano mixture to drizzle over it. I went very very light though since the peppers and chicken already had a lot of flavor.

This week was a week of sandwiches for some reason. I made a couple of different varieties though so it was a lot of fun.

Pancetta, turkey, cheese, and cherry jam

I came to work on Monday with no lunch so I took a quick spin to the grocery store and found a
long baguette for €0.59 so I knew sandwiches for the week were going to happen. I found pancetta which is similar to bacon, except sliced super finely so it can be eaten raw. I also found turkey and a sliced cheese (similar to American cheese except white and more creamy). I decided to put it all together with a bit of cherry jam. It added moisture and a great flavor contrast to the salty pancetta.

Delicious lunch #2

Tuesday's lunch was vaguely similar with another pancetta and turkey sandwich. Except I used
fresh tomatoes for moisture instead of cherry jam and served it with pasta in my homemade tomato sauce. I had leftover sauce that I wanted to use before it went to waste. It had started out with eggplants but I ate them all, so this was just a spicy sauce to go with my pasta and grated cheese. It was absolutely delicious.
I had another similar sandwich yesterday but I didn't take a picture of it because it looked very much the same, but I ate it with a helping of chick peas which were nice and light.

Mozzarella, prosiutto and honey

Today I went back to the store and had to refresh my supply of bread and cold cuts. I got ciabatta which is a wider bread that's not as long. I also got prosciutto crudo and mozzarella.  Then I added a little drizzle of honey for a nice touch of sweetness.
I know, I'm a little strange, but I really enjoy the combination of salty and sweet. It doesn't work for everyone, so I recommend experimenting a bit with flavors until you find the right combinations for you.

So far this week, I've had some really good sandwiches and we'll just have to see what I cook up for tomorrow!

Recipe: Baked Carbonara

There are many people who love a good Spaghetti Carbonara, myself included. But it is a very tricky dish to do well. Most carbonaras utilize raw egg, meaning that the egg needs to be tempered (i.e. heated slowly with another liquid) so it doesn't scramble when added to the hot pan. It's tricky and definitely takes a few tries to master.
I do a mean carbonara, but sometimes, I just don't feel like exerting all that effort, so I came up with a carbonara bake. It's made similarly to the pasta pie that my grandmother made but his one utilizes all of the same ingredients as a delicious carbonara, but you don't have to worry about tempering the egg. And for anyone preoccupied about raw eggs and the possibility of salmonella, this is a great alternative. The egg in this carbonara is cooked all the way through.


 Ingredients

4 or 5 strips of thick back, sliced
1/2 package of frozen peas
1 lb of pasta (I used penne this time, but anything will work)

1/2 cup heavy cream
1 egg or 2 egg yolks
1/2 cup mozzarella cheese, shredded (or provolone works as well)
Salt (for the pasta water)
Pepper to taste
Red pepper flakes to taste
1/2 tsp garlic powder
1 dash onion powder
1 tsp dry basil
Non stick spray for the glass pan

Prepare your pasta as you usually do with a small amount of salt to the point of al dente and put to the side to cool in the pot. If desired, toss with a tsp of olive oil to prevent sticking. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

In a large sautee pan or wok, slowly cook the bacon over a low flame until it begins to crisp up. Then add the peas still frozen. When the peas have begun to defrost, add the pepper and heavy cream and bring to a simmer. Turn off the heat.
In a small bowl, whisk the egg(s) and additional spices. Add red pepper flakes to taste. I love my food rather spicy, so I pour in quite a bit.
Pour the bacon and peas into the pasta pot. Stir in 3/4 of the cheese. Once the cheese has melted, slowly add in the egg mixture and well coat the pasta.

Spray a glass pan with non stick spray. Pour in the pasta and coat with the remaining cheese. Hint: the more cheese you add on top, the more moist the pasta will remain underneath.
Bake at 350° for 20 to 25 minutes or until the cheese is fully melted and the edges have begun to brown.

The finished product after baking for about 20 minutes. 

This recipe serves between 4 and 6 people depending on how large your servings are and whether you use this as a side or a main course. It's a great stand-alone or you can serve it with a light protein. 

I really do enjoy this dish. It's simple to make and you can easily adapt the recipe. You can change the vegetable, skip the bacon, replace it with sausage or with canadian bacon. You can even change the amount of pasta to cook for fewer people. It's an easy bake that generally gets gobbled up. And if you have leftovers, this is great the next day, either reheated in the microwave or in the oven.  

Hope you enjoy. 

-Raspberry Truffle

Homemade Healthy Pizza

Sometimes all you want is a little pizza. But goodness knows, restaurants can get expensive, and take-out, well, it's not always good. You have Domino's, Papa John's, Pizza Hut and countless other Italian pizzerias. Some are good, even amazing, but many are either greasy, the sauce is sweet or salty, the pies are small, the crust is too thin/too thick... You can't really control everything. It may be good, but not perfect. Yes, I know, I sound like a control freak. Sometimes I am.
And I kind of am when it comes to my pizza. Sometimes, all I want is a healthy, fresh pizza. Most delivery places don't have many options (although I admit there are several pizza places that do delivery and do pizza really, really well... I'll be posting about some of those options in my area soon).
So, what does the control freak in me suggest? Make your own. It's really easy to make your own  HEALTHY pizza and it's a lot of fun. It can be an individual activity (think stress relief while pounding out and rolling your dough) or a family activity (flour flying, individual pies ecc).

On Saturday night I made some pizza.
I was tempted to make my own dough, but laziness definitely won out.
We found delicious wheat dough at the supermarket. Freeze until you need and then defrost for a couple of hours before you wish to make your pizza. And if you're less health conscious (or just dislike wheat dough) there's always regular pizza dough.
When the dough was almost completely defrosted, I rolled it out and shaped one onto a circle pan and the other onto a rectangular baking sheet. If you want to make sure the dough doesn't stick, you can either spray the sheets with pam or lightly dust with flour (or semolina if you have it).
Next, toppings. Ladle some tomato sauce onto each pizza in a small layer. You can use homemade sauce or jarred (if using jarred, I usually add more spicing). Then cheese. Shredded mozzarella. I used a mix of the full fat and low fat Polly-O's shredded cheese and the melt on it was great.
And finally the last toppings. I did one meat pie (since my brother would not stand for "green things" on his slices. It was half pepperoni, 1/4 plain and a 1/4 canadian bacon. Just evenly space the pepperoni and the canadian bacon and pop into the oven. On other pies I usually drizzle a little olive oil on top, but with pepperoni and other fatty meats, it isn't necessary. I did, however, sprinkle the pie with a little oregano.
The round pie was another half and half: diced red and orange baby peppers and onions on one half and swiss chard and onions on the other. Both halves were drizzled with olive oil, oregano, basil, salt and pepper.
And into the oven they went. 350° for about 20 minutes.
The thicker the dough is the longer the pies should stay in. If you prefer a thicker crust you can even bake the dough sans topping to ensure it cooks all the way through without burning or overcooking your toppings.
And that's that. Serve warm with parmesan and red pepper flakes on the side.

It was DELICIOUS!! My family and I ate alot of those pies on Saturday night!

--Raspberry Truffle

Recipe: Creamy Polenta with Roasted Red Peppers and Sausage

Creamy Polenta with Roasted Red Peppers and Sausage

Polenta:                                                                      
5 cups water                                                              
Salt and pepper to taste                                              
1 3/4 cups polenta                                                      
1/3 cup whipping cream                                                
1/3 cup grated mozzarella or cheese of choice

Red Peppers and Sausage:
4 medium red peppers
1 lb Italian sausage
1 tbs olive oil
salt and pepper to taste
1 pinch paprika

Preheat the over to 300°F.
Slice the peppers into thin strips and completely remove the seeds. Place into baking pan.
Remove the sausage from its casing and crumble onto the peppers. Drizzle with olive oil, salt, pepper and paprika. Mix well and bake for around a half hour or until the peppers are tender.
In the meantime, bring the water to a boil. Lower heat and slowly add the polenta while stirring. Remove from heat and stir in the whipping cream and salt and pepper.
Serve with mozzarella, red peppers and sausage on top.

-- Raspberry Truffle

Recipe: Simple french onion soup

 3 raw onions, sliced thin
1 tbsp olive oil
1 boillion cube (preferably reduced sodium) boiled in the appropriate amount of water

Red pepper flakes to taste

oregano

salt and pepper to taste

For each bowl of soup: 

1 slice of thick wheat bread

thin slices of mozzarella (or your choice of cheese)



Saute the onions in a little bit of oil in a covered large saucepan over medium heat for 20 minutes or until the onions become soft and clear. Slowly stir in the boullion broth, red pepper flakes and black pepper. Bring to a boil for a few minutes and then let simmer for 15 minutes.

Place bread on a baking sheet; sprinkle bread with cheese. Broil 4-to-5 inches from heat for about 1 minute or until cheese is melted and golden.(I only make enough bread for the number of bowls of soup, so the bread and cheese are fresh and perfectly melted.)

Ladle soup into bowls and top with bread. 

My unique serving method: Place the whole piece of bread into a bowl and then ladle the onions and soup on top.

~Raspberry Truffle

Recipe: La Parmigiana #1

Eggplant Parmigiana is slowly becoming one of my favorite things to eat, and one of my favorite things to make, even though it takes forever to make. I have a couple of amazing variations on this recipe. The first is the one I traditionally use.

1 large eggplant or 2 medium eggplants
2 eggs, beaten
1 cup breadcrumbs or flour
Pot of tomato sauce (homemade is best :) obviously )
Grated mozzarella
250 grams of ricotta
parmigian cheese
oregano
salt
pepper
fresh basil (to put in the layers)

Everyone says Parmigiana is complicated... but I think it's pretty simple if a little time consuming...
Preheat the oven to 350*-400*.
Slice the eggplant into thin slices and salt lightly.  Beat the eggs with the various spices. Dip each piece of eggplant into the egg batter and then coat evenly with the breadcrumbs.
In a pan heat some olive oil and fry each piece of eggplant. When the eggplant comes out of the oil, drain the excess oil on sheets of paper towel.
In an oven proof casserole dish, ladle a thin layer of sauce into the casserole. Lay down a layer of eggplant, cover with a layer of mozzarella, ricotta and a fresh grating of parmigian cheese. Season with salt and pepper and then cover with another layer of tomato sauce.  Repeat the layering until you run out of all ingredients.
Finish by coating the top layer  of eggplant with sauce and extra parmigian cheese.
Bake for 30 to 40 minutes until there is a lightly golden crust.
Let sit for 10 to 15 minutes. Cut and serve!

~Raspberry Truffle